That wire is the alternator charge warning light,
Could you remember what colour it was, some of these alternators the exciter/charge warning wire, has to be fitted on the top of the two SMALL terminals , but have had to change the female end (wire side) before now and put it on the lower connector to get them work ( only , as you say its a nightmare to take back off and change) the wire goes to the engine fusebox,
Before you take alternator off ,, try the wire on the other terminal,,, p.s. It will not damage your alternator.

 

Thanks the wire is brown but as for the trying swapping the connection as it is in a pre formed plug/socket I will make up a small jumper lead and give it a go. Though what really interest me is what range of voltages should be seen through this wire (i.e. when measured across the earth) and how stable should it be as it appears extremely erratic.

Thanks again for your help

 

thats how I did it , terminal connector that we use on speakers, piggy back into the wiring and tried , it worked, so just left the other connection in place, soldered the wire to the original wire, and pushed the connection on,, pushed some RTV sealant in and left alone,

 

You would need to air on the side caution on this The alternator on these renaults have to be configured to the (upc) engine bay fusebox. I would recommend you do not tamper with it

 

Thanks for the warning however do you know how it is pared with the upc. I presume it must allow for replacements to be installed and consequently there must be a way to re programme it. Also if the UPC 'objects' to the replaced part is there a warning light etc to indicate this is the case.

Cheers

 

If you fitted the same amperage, then nothing needs to be changed,,, would only matter if you upped or decreased the amperage

 

Thanks, there is no change in the amps (120 on this model). So as I understand it there will be no need to re-program etc.. Hopefully I will have a chance to test swapping the lead over tomorrow, I will let you know how I get on.

 

No need to reprogram:smile2: try the other connection first,,it is just an exciter wire

 

This is not the run of the mill ordinary alternator. This is far more indeph than you imagine. Maybe your clip should should let you know theres 5 different type alternators for these it's imperative that the make & no on the back of the old alternator is the same as the replacement

 

Beg to differ, because I can, have fitted from the year 2001, when these alternators where first fitted to the Laguna, it makes no difference of the running or charging wise of these vehicles, .
But would love for you to tell me,
Always willing to learn, So please do feel free to explain ,,,

 

mickeybo is correct. The Clio III uses a UPC that is very similar design to the Megane II and Scenic II - completely different to the Clio II design. These have a serial data link between the alternator and the UPC, to monitor and change state. If you change the alternator, on some UPCs you need to inform that its a different type.

There was a change-over later on where the UPC could autodetect it. I can't remember when that was and what model. I _think_ it was around the 2005-2006 erar - so the Clio III may auto-detect. That's of course assuming it has a data link and the alternator is a model it understands.

You need to get a proper code scan on the UPC to see if its recognising it properly. There will be a code stored in the UPC if it does not recognise the alternator model.

 

The alternator fitted has not had an amperage change,,

it IS not A different alternator,,,

It is the same alternator, how ever you look at it,, it will not make any difference unless he drops or raises the amperage,

 

I have a Clio III 2006, 1.6 auto with climate control. The alternator died and the agent replaced it. Straight away it displayed the same symptoms as the op's, intermittent low battery warning and not charging. The agent replaced this alternator again with the same type but still the same symptoms. Turned out that there are 3 x 120amp alternators listed for this model (why?), all with the same mountings and connections. As the original alternator had been sent for recycling the agent didn't have the part number so it was trial and error until the third one finally fixed the problem. My experience confirms the previous posts that on this model Clio a replacement alternator must be EXACTLY the same type as the original. Now I have a mission to discover what the operational differences are between the three alternators.

 

Hi Everybody,

We have a Renault Clio mk3 2006 1.5 dci, K9KT766. A few months ago get a fault message, that 'Low Battery' and Stop warning lights. I called the mechanical, he changed the alternator and said, the old alternator dont charge enough. I bring the old alternator and test it. That's almost perfect. The old alternator is 120A, the new is 150A. Mechanical says, that has to, because we have digital climate. So when he change the alternator, we going to test the car, but the fault message is coming too, but charging is about 14,2 - 14,4 V. Before i take the key to the ignition switch, the battery is about 12,8V.
So the mechanical take the car to the computer and program the alternator to the ECU, and delete the fault code.
This fault code was DF007- UPC Alternator connection (CC) that means torn. I inspect all of terminals under the bonnet, especially in the UPC, change some fuses in turn, it wasnt be blown or damaged. But the fault is coming unwaveringly.
We are getting more and more desperate. Please help me, if anybody has any idea what should be the problem.
With a lot of thanks. Peter

 

Any idea of the Original Fault code Peter..
Or did the mechanic just change the alternator because of the warning light illuminated..
If you look at the back of the alternator where the small multiplug goes in, are the pins/connector in the same position on both alternators....

Any other issues with the car before hand, unexplained beeps, when you first opened the doors and inserted the key,

 

Have you got the original alternator? Could be worth taking (or sending) it to a rotating auto electrical reconditioner to get it overhauled to side step the issue with the replacement alternator. May even just need the brushes unsticking.

 

Dear ours2012,

The mechanical said, the alternator dont charge enough, but I havent seen, what he marked off. He said, thats alternator is died. We bring it and going to professional Service, take the alternator to a test stand and wait. The test stand diagnose, this alternator is almost perfect.
The multiplug***8217;s pins must be in correct because the mechanical change the position of the wire, so we tested both of pins, but none of them works.
The fault message is alternator-UPC connection (torn).. Whats mean that sentence?! Where is the problem?!
And I inspect the UPC and found a plug in the upper side which not connected to anywhere, and have one pin inside the plug. That have not too long pale purple almost gray wire.

 

Dear wyn burgess,

It is unnecessary to take the original alternator because we tested in a professional service and its almost perfect. So currently we have a reserved alternator.
Our car is take the fault message but we dont know why.

 

I thought I read it like that last night Peter, glad it's now been confirmed.
Reason asking for the diagnostic code..
Would be condemning the under bonnet fuse box.

This controls charging,. Not saying that the alternator fitted is correct here..
But alternators on Renault get changed willy nilly, and not always at fault..

 

Dear ours2012

So do you think, the problem maybe will in the UPC (controlling and protecting unit) under the bonnet at the upper of left steering wheel?!

 

I would say so, only two things , alternator or under bonnet fuse box, by the side of your battery.
Alternator charges, UPC tells it how much to charge..
You know alternator that was taken off is good, BEEN TESTED....,,, only leaves UPC ..

 

Dear ours2012

I understand it but the fuses are in front of the battery, and i inspect the 4 big fuses and didnt find anything unusual. Thats completely understandable, the problem is in the UPC. But whats the problem because in the UPC cant find blown fuses, burning traces, or signs of water. It seems almost new.
What do you think about the alternator***8217;s exciter wire?! If I unplug, that isnt charging, but when I connect it the charging is correct. The wire is patched sometimes, so not seems too perfect.

 

Inside your UPC is a relay, its sandwiched between two pcb's this relay fails, and thats why the diagnostic is needed to show the fault code, ..

Nothing to do with fuses, alternator circuits are not fused, not needed, as the fuse would blow to slow/late and the alternator would already be damaged ..
OR should I say the Rectifying circuit ( diodes ) would be damaged..

 

Dear ours2012,

So need to change the big fuses despite to seen any damage?!
Or which relay have to inspect in UPC?!
Thank you for your help.

 

NOPE those fuse are nothing to do with charging..
Nor are the fuses inside the fuse box ( UPC )..


If you follow the wire from the alternator, all the way up to the UPC, ( Ohms meter here ) you will see its not fused , , and by taking the fuse box casing off, you will be able to follow the circuit down to the relay