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Any of those four - check your fault codes to narrow it down. I had same problem and it was cured by a trip to Renault and reprogramming of the box (after all contacts were checked of course). My fault code was Clutch 1 fault - which it clearly wasn't
 
Hi! I have a Grand Scenic 2011 1.5dCi with check auto gearbox sign. Reverse does not work and what I could read in this thread some of you have tried changing the solenoid. I can not find any solenoid on the different websites that sell parts. Do you have a picture of how the solenoid looks like and where it is fitted? (maybe a Renault part number?)
 
Have you tried everything else first? I haven't seen a single post that has had success with a new solenoid. Here's another one
captur 2014 transmission error is DF490 clutch 2 electrical circuit fault - MHH AUTO - Page 1
is there a stored fault code?
Thanks for the reply! It feels like I am now grasping at straws... The car has been out of use for 5 months and the Renault dealer says that it is no use doing anything because they think it is the clutch. It would cost more than the value of the car... But a car with 150k km... anyway. The codes I could read from the OBD are: ECU: P0380(96) (Glow plugs...), TCU: P1741(91) & (92) (torque converter clutch control error), P1771(1C), BCM: B1579(15), B1570(15).
I don't have a lot of knowledge with car mechanics and it feels like a jungle out there with all the posts... and again, thanks twogogs for taking your time replying.
 
OK, first, the EDC box doesn't have a torque converter. It has two clutches (operated by solenoids). Other solenoids are used to operate the gear selections. Since the car has not been used for a while I have to ask what state is the car battery in? How old is it? First thing I would do is to disconnect the battery earth -ve lead (or remove it) and charge it fully overnight (make sure you have your radio code). Before doing this turn everything off, open the bonnet/hood and walk away for fifteen minutes for everything to shut down properly. Charge it fully - if it is more than 5 years old I would change it anyway, or at least borrow a good one. Don't need to waste too much money on parts yet. When reconnected (might need to re-initialise windows) see if the problem is still there. There is no harm in trying to clear the codes (once) to see if they come back. Depending on the reader, and as generic codes, they are not very helpful but I found that clearing the clutch codes resolved the issue for me, albeit temporarily. This was enough to tell me that there wasn't a catastrophic mechanical failure anywhere.

As said above, the battery could be the problem if it has been left unused for five months. Even more so if it is old. And Renaults don't like bad batteries. If all the above fails, I would get someone to check/clean all the external electrical connections to the box (including ECU).

You say reverse does not work - what happens when you engage it? I'm guessing the box won't change up to second gear either. What about in manual mode - can you force a change to third?

I went though all this. Having the box software (fuzzy logic) reprogrammed solved everything for me. That would be the next step but needs a Renault technician who understands what is going on - and these are not cheap, but not as costly as a gearbox repair.
 
OK, first, the EDC box doesn't have a torque converter. It has two clutches (operated by solenoids). Other solenoids are used to operate the gear selections. Since the car has not been used for a while I have to ask what state is the car battery in? How old is it? First thing I would do is to disconnect the battery earth -ve lead (or remove it) and charge it fully overnight (make sure you have your radio code). Before doing this turn everything off, open the bonnet/hood and walk away for fifteen minutes for everything to shut down properly. Charge it fully - if it is more than 5 years old I would change it anyway, or at least borrow a good one. Don't need to waste too much money on parts yet. When reconnected (might need to re-initialise windows) see if the problem is still there. There is no harm in trying to clear the codes (once) to see if they come back. Depending on the reader, and as generic codes, they are not very helpful but I found that clearing the clutch codes resolved the issue for me, albeit temporarily. This was enough to tell me that there wasn't a catastrophic mechanical failure anywhere.

As said above, the battery could be the problem if it has been left unused for five months. Even more so if it is old. And Renaults don't like bad batteries. If all the above fails, I would get someone to check/clean all the external electrical connections to the box (including ECU).

You say reverse does not work - what happens when you engage it? I'm guessing the box won't change up to second gear either. What about in manual mode - can you force a change to third?

I went though all this. Having the box software (fuzzy logic) reprogrammed solved everything for me. That would be the next step but needs a Renault technician who understands what is going on - and these are not cheap, but not as costly as a gearbox repair.
Thanks twogogs!
Well, yesterday I installed a new original Renault battery with the highest capacity for that model. I cleared the codes and ALL gears engaged! I took the car for a ride (20 minutes) all went well and I got a reply from the Renault mechanic that the gearbox has the latest software version. Crossing fingers now and hope I can squeeze more Km from this car. By the way, it is soon time for changing the timing belt... (apron. 900 Euros here in Sweden) Apparently it is quite a lot of work... thanks again two dogs!
 
Thanks for letting us know, and glad you got it sorted. At least you know the gearbox is sound mechanically. If it happens again it is almost certainly an intermittent electrical or software issue. 900€ seems expensive for a timing belt replacement, even in Sweden. Not too difficult a job if you have the right equipment. Access around the engine is not good but's that is more than twice what it cost me for the same car.
 
Thanks for letting us know, and glad you got it sorted. At least you know the gearbox is sound mechanically. If it happens again it is almost certainly an intermittent electrical or software issue. 900€ seems expensive for a timing belt replacement, even in Sweden. Not too difficult a job if you have the right equipment. Access around the engine is not good but's that is more than twice what it cost me for the same car.
Well the happiness was short-lived but not the determination to make this car working. I started the car this morning and check auto gearbox came up again on the display. Same issue, no reverse. I put on reverse and the “R” flashes on the display and the gearbox handle “clicks” on time. So the last thing to do is to check the electrical connections to the gearbox, right? Do you know where they are? Are they easy to clean yourself?
/Fernando
 
No, not easy unfortunately. I had my local garage do it. You can't get to anything on the Scenic without taking other bits off first. Sorry to hear that.
 
I have an M4 1.5 110hp with edc year 2016 km 156000
The car had resofting at 30 thousand km + replacement ecu box, and at 52 thousand km replacement lever box + resofting!
The problem is a slight lever vibration at the standstill at idle P, or if you are in lowspeed no acceleration in D or R, and if you press the brake it attenuates and even the vibration disappears!
Don't do it all the time!
Did anyone else have it? Is edc common?
Should I go like this without taking it into account?
Thank you.
Video here:
 
Hi all!
I think I´m joining the "Club of desprate EDC owners"... I have a 2010 reg Megane 3 Sport tourer 1.5 dCi. It has been driven already 199000km but the problems have occured first time tens of thousands of kilometers ago with previous owner. I have similar challenges like you with my Megane´s EDC gearbox and I´m quite frustrated to solve the problem.

Althought I have loned my friend´s Renault Clip-laptop and tried to think logical reasons for the jumping gears. The rootcause might be in LAN-network and EDC itself is not the troublemaker, just one sufferer of incorrect data in LAN. Some ECU or device is sending the code in LAN low network and gives false values to ABS/ESP-ecu and EDC can not send multiplex proved message to ABS. Only fault code which does not go away is related to the trunk light. Clip says that there is a permanent short circuit to the ground. I think that is not true cause light is working propelly and wiring is ok. Yesterday I noticed that the genue navigator "went bananas" and lost the location totally. I think I have to check tailgate wiring and check radio/nav antenna connections...

Error messages in dashboard infopanel:
  • Check ESP
  • Check Auto Gearbox
  • Check Hill hold assist
  • Check ABS

Now I have driven a couple of days Megane only in manual mode and changed the gears manual and no problem have occured... so far.
 
I think Darki has disappeared but my car was exactly the same as yours. OK, you haven't declared any fault codes but I am 80-90% sure the gearbox is still mechanically sound. The problem will either be: a bad battery or charging system; a poor electrical connection to the box ecu; ecu software update needed; ecu replacement. The first two can be checked by any decent mechanic. The last two will need a Renault technician ( a new ecu is only two or three hundred euros). If the technician says straight away you need a new box, find a new garage. I am on my second car with the EDC box and I am about to buy a third. They are good boxes mechanically, only suffering from electrobugs, voltage drops and software.
Let us know how you get on. I would stake my old age pension on one of the above (unless of course your gearbox is making terrible crunching noises already).
 
Thanks twodogs,
After start sometimes write "check auto gearbox", does not work R, on D car go only 1,2,3 to speed 40kmh. DTC on diagnostik say P1771. Sometimes is all OK the car works normally.
Sorry to english.
 
So the problem is not permanent. For intermittent fault I would suspect electrical connection or low voltage. How old is car battery? Is it well charged? It is also possible that a sensor (throttle position etc?) is sending an erratic signal. Car electronics are too complicated but, as you say, the problem is not there all the time. This tells me that the gearbox still works ok when it wants to.
 
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