If you're still stuck with your indicators give some more info and we'll see what can be done.

 

Would go on the indicator stalk first, change it..
Before ripping the car apart,

 

:iagree::iagree:

issues do seem to be stalk related, possible internal contact corrosion and/or short circuit.

Car would certainly be dangerous to drive if giving other road users conflicting indications of direction.

My suggestion would be to get the part number from the existing stalk and ring Renparts and they
should be able to send you the right replacement. Fitment is plug and play

DON'T throw away the old one until after the replacement one is fitted, issues resolved & not reoccurred for a month or two.

Al

 

I doubt it would be the stalk.
More likely the indicator RELAY is worn and shorting internally. Operate the HAZARD LIGHTS with ignition OFF and then with ignition ON. The unit would be the first port of call. Test resistance across each terminal for LEFT and then RIGHT.

 

Dont have a relay fitted

 

These flasher units cost around £8 if you shop around.

 

Hi, to start off with, the left hand side indicators would sometimes stay solid, both the lights and the light on the dash. If I then indicated right, the left indicators would then go out. This didn't happen every time I indicated left. Now however, the left hand indicator lights do not go out at all even with no key in the ignition. The right hand indicators still flash but the left hand lights stay on solid, permanently. The only way I can get them to go out is to take the fuse out. When I put the fuse back in, the lights come on and stay on again. I take the fuse out every time I park the car so that the battery does not go flat. All the other lights work on the car and I am not having problems anywhere else. The hazzards work, well the right side flashes and the left side stays solid, both with the ignition on or off. Where can I find the relay? I'll have a look at that tomorrow

 

If no individual relay plugged unit then there is still a relay Circuit embedded in the instrument cluster (circuit h) as depicted in the Workshop Manual that I'm looking at right now, section 12, para 29. The circuit runs through the Multi Timer Unit. Same principle, just a soldered circuit

 

Yes maybe but how is OP going to do it.. Or test this.. so now does he need an instrument cluster, or a multitimer?
Fit a stalk and go from there, ..
Before ripping the car apart...

 

Also doubt it's stalk, no power to stalk if ignition is off? Surely?

I'll make a bet on water in fusebox or somewhere shorting battery live to left indicator wiring.

?

 

helenpostle
Not sure if you still need help as you've not returned to this thread with any requested info that would enable anyone to help. Perhaps you're preoccupied with eating chocolate bunnies this week.

 

helenpostle
The info you need to give is the EXACT details of your vehicle ie. date of first registration, including MONTH, fuel type and engine size as there are several variations. Some models have plugin relay units and some have microchipped relay circuits.
I advise that to remove the fuse may render your immobilizer circuit non functional and could even invalidate your insurance theft cover. With some later models the removal of the fuse will not change the operation of the immobilizer but on some early models such as yours you run the risk as these circuits are more primative. For this reason your Exact vehicle details are important as yours could have been built on the cusp of being fitted with a 'hard' relay or a 'soft 'relay' (soldered).

I have dismantled and rebuilt every Renault car model over 51 years except the Renault 21.

 

Hi, yes I still need help, it takes ages for my replies to be published and then I'm usually working when someone replies to me. The registration date is 15/05/2003 It is a petrol car and a 1.6 16v engine.

I have removed the fuse for the indicators permanently now as I feel its too dangerous to drive with the left side lights on as its too confusing to other road users, so I am using hand signals for turning at the moment. The immobiliser light flashes when I lock the car just the same with the fuse in or out so I think it is still working, the car is definitely locked.

thanks

(this post appeared immediately!!)

 

helenpostle
I'm curious how recently you purchased the car and if the fault was already present. Also what date is the next Test due? Because as it stands currently it would fail.

My thinking is that you possibly inherited the fault from the previous owner who already had the fault investigated and advised about possible costs, and therefore sold it while it still had a certificate.

It's possible that the car was sold to you with the seller already aware there is an expensive circuit fault, and didn't tell you.

To help you keep your time and costs to a minimum I need the following:
Date you purchased vehicle
Date of next vehicle Test
Was it a private or dealer sale
Where are you in the country

You may think this info is irrelevant but bear with me on this.

It might be a good idea to research the Test History via the Gov. Website

Get back to me asap

 

before any of that information is taken into consideration, the one thing that the OP needs to know regarding your train of thought James, is if the car was bought privately:

You have fewer rights when you buy a used car from a private seller, and key parts of the Consumer Rights Act don't apply. For example, there is no legal requirement for a car to be of satisfactory quality or fit for purpose.

if it was a private sale the problem is now well and truly in the hands of the OP

 

Vapulabis

I understand where you are coming from but what you say is NOT strictly correct.

If a Trader sells a vehicle that is not fit for the road or does not comply with legal requirements, that is an OFFENCE whether or not the Trader was aware of any faults that would be in breach of legal requirements.

In this case, if it was a Private seller(and it may have been a Trader under the guise of being a Private seller, buying and selling cars from home for example), the onus would still be on the Private seller to inform the buyer that there is a fault with the vehicle that would render it not fit or legal on the road. The seller can still be prosecuted if it can be shown that the Seller knew the car was being sold with a fault of that nature.

The principle would be as if the Seller sold a vehicle knowing that every now and again the brakes fail and did not want to repair and decided to sell sell it, and not inform the buyer, knowing the buyer would probably not detect the fault, even on inspection, and for the buyer to drive it away with an intermittent brake failing fault.

"Fit for purpose" does not apply.

My suggestion on researching the Test history is because it may reveal a historical FAIL on the indicators and if that happens to be the case before the last test the seller would have to prove the fault was repaired if the car was in same ownership during the fault, the repair and the most recent Test prior to the car being sold to our friend helenpostle.

I know I've written at length here but the some background checks as I mention may be what's needed.

 

Sorry.
I feel this is going off topic.
IMHO, it matters not, who sold what to whom.
Or even if they knew it was faulty last year. :frown2::frown2:
It's a 2003 car, they break. Usually earlier. :nerd:
Is it possible to get back to the technicalities & forget any perceived legalities? Which on a private sale are NOT going to help poor old Helen.

My 2d worth is Soggy BCM.

 

I don't think it's going off Topic. The topic is is that helenpostle has a car with a fault that's only recently been purchased. If there is a major wiring or circuit problem it could work out very very expensive, and buyer didn't know until after the purchase. If you really want to be helpful why don't you deal with it then. It seems to me you don't have much experience about what goes on in the world when some sellers will take advantage of unsuspecting Innocent buyers. I've read so many people on here advising people to buy this and buy that and buy this and change that and the problem actually never get solved.

I do note that you come on here and say that it's gone off Topic but yet you don't give our friend any practical advice whatsoever about how to try and solve the problem without needlessly spending loads of money and still not get the problem resolved.

 

I suggest Sir, you Re-read my last Line

Also, It's not wise to upset a Moderator.

 

Your phrase "2p worth" of input gives me the impression that you're a very depressed old timer with nothing else better to do..

 

James I think you are missing the point of this forum, we come on to offer advice about the cars, not the laws, .
Should there be a major wiring fault, then we would not be able to help with the best will in the world, though we would want to...
Its a friendly helpful forum, Thats what it is and thats how it will stay..
So though the OP might have been stitched up, we cannot get involved in that..


So having digs really does not help,..
Take this in the way its meant, As feel confident the more you stick around you will see where we are coming from...
And that the input we offer is about things we can help with, not that we wish we could help with..

 

Was nice knowing you James,, NOT :::: But to P155 a guy off who has been on a long time and (A Mod at that), actually does know about Renault cars , is not only rude, but bloody NASTY ..

 

I've read what's been said and I want to point out the reason I raised the purchase of the vehicle was simply so that helenpostle did not start throwing good money after bad, i.e. first finding out if the car was a dead duck beforehand.

I don't like the idea of people getting ripped off and then spending more money on top of it trying to solve a problem that has possibly been there for some time.

If I came over the sounding rude it's probably because I don't like to be insulted when I'm trying to help someone. That's all I've got to say.