Educated guess but I would swap the coolant temp sensor.
ECU uses coolant temp to adjust mixture to suit conditions, a bit like the choke on old cars.
Fairly cheap

 

Thanks for that i will get one and give it a try and get back to you fingers crossed.

 

I bought and fitted the sensor, unfortunately the outside temp has been mild for the week and for the next following week, for now it starts normal on a cold block, needs testing around freezing. Would i have to disconnect the battery to reset the new temp gauge with the ECU.

 

Would i have to disconnect the battery to reset the new temp gauge with the ECU.

Shouldn't do

Keep us posted pls and fingers crossed.

 

Having same problem my temperature in car reading crazy .. turns over for 20 seconds and then fires after that will start after 2secs

 

Well i tried it today outside temp about 9 and it wouldnt turn over for quite a while, it kept trying on some turns coughing and spluttering for a second trying to bite but wouldn't have it. I then waited for about 39 seconds and tried it again and fired after the second turn. Still have the problem, something is holding back.

 

What type of throttle body do you have fitted?

 

I am not sure, I will have to take a photo.

 

I got a couple of pictures of the supposed areas where you would expect some kind of throttle at the back of the engine, cant seem to find what looks like a throttle. One picture showing the pipe with release catch, not sure if its a petrol pipe or something else. I can hear a small wirling noise when i turn on the ignition before starting then cuts out after a few seconds, i assume

this is the pump?

 

When i tried today the battery started to die after good while, i jumped started it with jump leads to another car and it started straight away. What would cause that.

 

The pump is in the petrol tank.
There is no throttle cable as such, not in the mechanical sense, this is fly by wire, all done by electronics.

When i tried today the battery started to die after good while, i jumped started it with jump leads to another car and it started straight away. What would cause that.

Added power of a second battery.

Which makes me ask the question, when it is cold, does the engine seem to crank over slower when starting?

 

The car cranks over on its own no problem. I was looking at a youtube video about the throttle body which explains its a fly by wire job, now i understand. The socalled conection which i thought might be a fuel line is something to do with the brakes.

When i had this problem i changed the coil pack to eliminate the problem list. I think the original pack was changed a couple of years ago because i thought it was faulty but it turned out to be the crank sensor. When winter came this new pack didn't like the cold. So i changed back to the old pack which still worked and had no problems the winter. Eventually it had to be thrown it as one of the leads tracked causing a misfire. Usually you used to be able to change the leads, but not on the Renault as they are permanently fixed in place so a bin job. So replaced with new pack until winter again. I noticed now watching the youtube video that there are two types of coil pack, one with three screw mounting holes and one with four. The last two coil packs were four hole, i think the original was three. When you go to the Auto factors you assume the details you give them ie reg etc you would get the right part, i assumed that the four mounting holes would accommodate another model rather than making two types etc they are the same. Now i am wondering if i have the wrong coil pack with the four mounting holes rather than the three that seemed to work. Not sure if there is any difference between the two and why i have cold start problems. What do you think.

 

I'm not going to discount coil pack as a weak spark will make it harder to start when cold.
But really haven't come across it as a specific unless I go back to the days of points and condensers which would cause a weak spark and really muck up cold starting.

Looking at the picture of your coil pack, is that an empty fixing hole, bottom left?
If so, I wonder if that is part of the earthing arrangement?
Which makes me wonder if putting a bolt through (with a nut on tother side) and an earth lead to one of the other bolts could help?
And that may be total tosh.... a thought is all... but one easy enough to try and cannot see it doing any harm.

With your thought would also be trying to sort a three hole mounting coil pack????

 

Latest update, i went out and bought a three mount coil pack from Euro carparts, much cheaper £36 as to £55 for the four hole one. I asked them if it was the correct one as they have made mistakes before. I fitted it and when testing the engine turned over from the starter motor but stopped after 3-5 seconds and it locked up as if nothing was there. Tried it a couple of times but no joy. Either not the correct pack. I put the old pack back and now its takes a while for the engine to bite to fire up and that when its mild but starts normal when engine warmed up as normal.
I was lucky to get my money back from Euro car parts as i had opened the sealed bag, which they moaned about, so i said how was i able to test if it worked its not fit for purpose, what a stupid idea.
So i am back to square one. I either buy a new coil pack from Renualt but finding a dealer selling spares is a nightmare, i am not sure how many coil packs they do for this particular model. I did try and find the engine number but cant find it on the block, maybe that would help getting the correct one. Or is the problem something else, can't think what else to change. I am also worried that i haven't buggered up the ECU by fitting the last duff coil pack.
The other option is to take it to the local garage.

 

Isten hozott! Megoldódott a problémája? Mi volt a megoldás?

 

Nekem is hasonló problémám van. ))))