I have done all the obvious things plus all other suggested ideas on other threads.

Does that include resetting the wipers or, more precisely, wiper motors?

 

Got to fit a new motor on one tomorrow, will have a look.
See what that is reading as regards wires

 

Found anything?

 

No mate ,

 

Sorry was not able to update last night.
Fitted Passenger side motor, then drivers side packed in ..
So been and fitted drivers..
Try this, as this is how I did it, as after I had finished yesterday, nothing was working as regards wipers, which sounds very much like your issue now..
Disconnect the battery, disconnect the wiper motors plugs,
Reconnect the battery, force after ignition on.
To do this, select any gear, if manual, or drive if an auto, and hold finger on start button, once dash informs you to remove card then take card out.
After ignition is now on
Move the wiper stalk down one click, now move it back up.
Switch ignition off, by removing card and pressing the stop button.
If not sure ignition has gone off, then start the car and stop it with the button.
Now remove the card..
Connect the two multiplugs, force after ignition, pull wiper down to position 1 ( 1 click down ) then back to 0 up
Switch after ignition off.
Wipers will now be initialised..
Refit both side panels and all the other parts but not the wipers
Now its working out how to fit the wiper blades.
Fit drivers side first, you need it to be running straight as regards looking from the front, so this blade is now horizontal..
Dont tighten the nut up fully, but enough that it pinches onto the splines.
Try this side with water, dont do it without using your washers..
If its to high, the water will allow the wiper to go over the pillar, without damaging the blade or the paint work.
Once happy, then go to the passengers side and fit this level to your other blade.
THIS blade goes below drivers side.
Drivers side blade is longer than passengers side..
When done refit the caps..
Good luck with it..

 

Try this side with water, dont do it without using your washers..
If its to high, the water will allow the wiper to go over the pillar, without damaging the blade or the paint work...

Wet the windscreen first as the washers kick in a second or two after the wipers.

 

Never noticed that, oops my bad,
Didn't scratch body work honest, it really was already scratched..

 

... And I fitted the wipers right the first time

 

I didn't, got them the right way round , but drivers was to high. so was just touching the side pillar .
Dropped it until it was vertical, and it stopped about 1/2 inch from the pillar.
then set the other one parallel to this.
But in my defence.. both were not set correctly when it came in..

 

Thanks for all your advise....just wanted to follow up as I hate it when posts just stop unresolved...i fitted a second hand drivers side motor ( £140 worth a punt as new they are around £250 ) as it looked like the old one had been wet in there at some time surprise surprise still not working...but I could hear that the passenger motor was making a tap noise when i turned on the wipers..so I took the motor apart and noticed the motor controlled link arm was at its max travel causing it to tap against the wiper case...I then removed the two screws holding the motor magnets in place which allowed me to rotate the armature by hand which moved the link arm to its opposite stop position..resembled the motor and tried again and all good I guess the motor was in the wrong position which prevented it from turning...I still dont understand how they work electrical wise and to be honest i dont care as i am selling it and moving on to something German asap well as soon as I fix the central locking that Is...gotta love a Renault.

 

From what I made out working on this Scenic III, its working as Drivers is master.
Passenger is slave.
The system seams to be some kind of LIN system.
When drivers side is at a certain point, then it allows passenger side to work.
(Reason for initializing the motors)
I am hoping the customer has left both the old motors and I can have them on Monday.
Then will strip and see how the actual motors work, as not found anyone who has posted a picture of these stripped down..

 

I have photos of the motors stripped down but I am finding it impossible to get them on here .

 

when you hit the reply button and end up on the "Reply to Thread" page, directly underneath the dialog box you type your reply in, is a box with the title "Drag and Drop File Upload", weirdly enough, drag and drop your pictures into that box, they will start off full size, then drop down to thumbnail size, when they are all thumbnail size they are uploaded, hit the submit reply button and Voila!
:wink2:

 

This is how they look inside.

 

Hi, that's great thanks- any tips on how to split the casing without breaking it?
The issue I think with these is the drain holes block and they end up sitting in water

 

I too have an issue with front wipers on a Scenic III.

I've found a diagram which may be of benefit to others, and with the information on resetting the wipers and pictures of the internals thought it would be more use reviving this thread than to just start a new.

Essentially the front motors are not activating. The screenwash is activating front and rear. Rear wiper also functions.

Tried the reset above to no avail.

Using a diagnostic software live data when moving the stork I see inactive, timed, low speed and high speed. I therefore don't suspect the stork.
I also have the following diagnostic trouble codes from the body control unit.
DTC9570 Permanent Brake light circuit.
High level brake light is not functioning.
DTC9521 Permanent Opposing motor connection
Unable to find any information online regarding this but found the wiring diagram below which I hope others find of use.

I've been able to establish the readings in red on the diagram above using a multimeter.

The cable between Pin 3 linking both motors has continuity, zero voltage, no short to ground.

There is continuity between pin 5 of 1888 (right motor) and Pin 1 of 1889 (left motor), and continuity back to 645 (Body control unit) behind the glove box. It's on the smaller of the black plugs towards the centre of the unit width wise, fairly low down, with a small bundle of wires coming from the bulkhead. When the wiper should be on, there is 8V between this pin and ground.
If anyone has typical readings for here, that could be useful! Also if a voltage can be injected into this pin to test the motors or if this expects CAN signals? I don't want to blindly apply voltage to damage the units.

Pin 1 of 1888 right motor and pin 5 of 1889 left motor has a continuous 12V. No short to ground.
Pin 2 of 1888 right motor and pin 4 of 1889 left motor has the connection to ground.

Any suggestions on how to open the unit? The sealant seems to have a good grab when the screws are removed. Heatgun?

Does the under bonnet fuse box USM / Switching and Protection unit have any role in the wipers and brake lights?
Having taken it out to bell the fuses out before finding it's in the glove box, I discovered this when I thought to check the board.

Which doesn't look too natural to my untrained eye.

 

Not sure, I'm no auto sparks but I doubt whether 645 UCH in the passenger compartment could be the issue. The main power to the wipers comes from 260, the UPC switcing protection unit in the engine compartment. Assuming the fuses are OK here, I think the issue lies with the motors. Seem to recall that another poster identified a blown thermal fuse on one of the wiper boards as the problem?

 

Thanks.
I've struggled to get the wiper motor open to look at the board.
Having read it was going through the UPC I took that off and found what I thought doesn't look normal looking down at the two chips. The side view shows how much the one has deformed to my untrained eye. It certainly doesn't appear to be a blob of varnish to me. Particularly seeing silver.

The trouble is the diagram I found shows 260 as being the glove box fuse box rather than the UPC and both 40A fuses there are good, with 12v power reaching your motors on the heavier cables. So he's unconvinced the UPC has a role in the wipers on the scenic iii as it does in older models and Clio etc.

I've just found in another thread Ours2012 wrote "NOTE, you need to hit the starter button TWICE to force after ignition off" so I've got that to try with a replacement master motor.

I will update.

 

Yes, I was looking at the wiring diagram for my wife's Captur and 260 is described as a UPC so maybe it is different on Scenics (not worked on later Scenics). Matters not as the motors are being fed. Best.

 

Thanks . Either that or the diagram I found has a flaw.

I've wondered if it should receive canbus data or or variable voltage to activate the various modes with respect to timed, low and high speed from 645. Not something I can find anywhere.

I could try again opening the original master motor with a bit more enthusiasm now I have a replacement but neither currently operate despite going through the reset method. Nor does either master motor run with slave disconnected.

Thanks for your time. Much appreciated.

 

As Ours says the motors must be controlled by the single LIN wire from 645, lots of information on line like:
LIN Capture for Component Testing — ATA - Modular Flow Management Seems you can test the signal with a multimeter but it does say that the signal may be shut down if a fault is detected. If it was me I'd be dismantling the motors to look for water damage, lack of grease, testing the thermal fuses for continuity etc then connecting them up to see if they work. If not I guess the next step would be get the codes read with a decent reader & clear any that look to be related to the wipers. Lastly (in desperation) I would buy replacement SH motors, at least on Ebay you should be able to get the ££ back if they don't work. Best

 

Thanks for the info there. Using the terms I was able to learn more about the LIN System.

I was able to revive the original off side master motor after turning the armature by hand to free it. Having cleaned the face and applied new sealant it now behaved like the salvage off side master motor when refitted.

Unfortunately the information online which states the master motor should run with a failed or missing slave motor proved not to be the case. This seems normal having spoken with an auto electrician.

Being unable to open the casing of the near side slave motor with heat left little choice but to go for a new motor on that side with no salvage ones to be found.

The bit which may help others is that even with two good motors and doing the reset procedure, clearing fault codes, the intermittent and high speed didn't operate at first.

The wiper stork live data on the diagnostics didn't show that the position was changing when the stork was operated with the motors connected, just reading INACTIVE.

With motors disconnected live data was as follows:

With the stork at 0 and sensitivity set to your smallest drop it showed OFF.
Stork at 0 with sensitivity set to anything but lowest showed INACTIVE.
Stork at Auto showed TIMED.
Stork at I showed LOW SPEED.
Stork at II showed HIGH SPEED.

Reconnected the motors and following reset procedure again, nothing happened with intermittent, low speed worked as normal, high speed either remained slow or the wipers lifted to the A pillars and stopped, then parked slave first she'd master last like when changing wiper blades.

After some use then the usual performance and actions returned on their own with no further action.