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Discussion starter · #21 ·
what exactly changed between "the engine not turning over at all" and later on? ( other than the plug for the CPS).
I unplugged and plugged in my ODB reader in and cleaned the CPS sensor connection.

The model code contained in your VIN (AHB2) I just cannot find, so I am unable to figure if you have a simple O2 sensor based ECU or a A/F sensor based ECU.
Can you see if the oval plate shows a different model code that we can use please? (something like BCMx)
The plate on the door pillar just shows the VIN number VF1AHB2 and the information e2*2007/46*0457, and some weights in kgs

Since you are already in the bowels of the thing can you check on the exhaust sensors - are they both 4 or 5 wire jobs, and do they have the same part numbers?
The sensor in the manifold has 4 wires the other 5 wires. I can't see any numbers on them.

What is the scanner reporting for engine coolant temperature ?
After clearing the codes and driving it I saw the engine warning light first come on when the coolant temp read 60 degC
 
The sensor in the manifold has 4 wires the other 5 wires. I can't see any numbers on them.
I was afraid of this and my fear is now confirmed - you have some strange mixed logic ECU there - the reason for wanting exact model code.

Forget about the downstream 5 wire sensor till you have the upstream 4 wire sensor outputting believable values - ie - somewhere in the range of 0 to 1V ONLY
So - a 4 wire sensor is imo an O2 sensor and not a wideband A/F sensor - in which case that 1.27V reported on it is absolute rubbish - either you have an open heater on the O2, a wiring or power/12V feed problem to the heater element's 2 wires, the sensor is totally bust, or you have a mad ECU.

Easy enough to prove - remove the sensor from the manifold, plug it back into the harness and then see what you get on the scanner - you should see somewhere around 0.45V with the engine not running but ignition switched on ................ is this what you are seeing? ..............
 
I cannot retype the whole spiell again, but here is a guy with basically the same misery as you have - have a read on the progress and tests we went through there - just about all the theory on O2 management is included there too

 
Discussion starter · #24 ·
I can't get the sensor out. It's in pretty fast so will have to take it to a garage. I'll update when I've managed to test it. Btw additional error codes now :

P11501C
P1153

I'll read the thread & Thanks again.
P
 
Discussion starter · #26 ·
Ok so got the pre cat O2 sensor out and tested as advised. Still 1.27v. Running diagnostics again got P0135 - heated O2 sensor control circuit malfunction. Is this because it's plugged in but not grounded? Time to replace sensor ?

Thanks
P
 
Hi All, I have a rough running 2015 Twingo 0.9 tce. The engine warning light comes on and off when the engine is warm and sometimes the spanner light and the STOP light. The OBD reports P0300 (multiple cylinder misfire) amongst other user codes. After research it seems that this is not an uncommon fault on this model but I'm struggling to find a fix.

I have so far replaced the plugs and ignition coils and crank sensor on advice but the problem still exists. All 3 plugs appear very black and sooty. I have also noticed an occasional electrical fault when its raining where the dash and exterior lights go on and off whilst driving but I'm not sure if this is related to the misfire which happens whatever the weather.

Any advice appreciated.

P
Put cleaner through it and cat cleaner in
 
Discussion starter · #29 ·
Replaced the pre cat 02 sensor. No longer seeing P0300 errors and car feels to be running smoother but I am seeing :-

P0135 - O2 sensor control circuit malfunction
P2246 - 02 sensor voltage circuit high

Sensor still reading 1.27v so this concurs with @LvR telling me reading high. Still seeing a whole load of electrical faults. Dash warning lights ABS (Still getting U0415), traction control, spanner, stop, plus others. Interior and exterior lights randomly go on and off.

Thinking a bad earth? If so where do I start looking ?

Any advice, thanks as always....
P
 
Know its going to be difficult to believe given your actions but the fact remains - if you don't have a power or wiring issue with the O2, you have a faulty O2.

As per the example of the poor guy in the other thread I linked to with basically the same measurement and problem:

Methodically now .................

Exactly same numbers stamped on the sensor
What is that?

What is the heater voltage you measure on the O2?
 
Discussion starter · #33 · (Edited)
Image

Bosch 226A41772R

Image

O2 voltage 1.27v

Error codes present :-
P0135 - O2 sensor control circuit malfunction
P2246 - 02 sensor voltage circuit high

It could be a wiring issue but I'm not sure how I'd go about diagnosing where the problem is.

Thanks
P
 
If the vehicle was with me I could probably suggest/try a few things simply because I have a set of tools and a bit of experience.

At this stage, you seem to be stuck and not making any progress.

Me? - I would say it is absolutely worth spending some money on a proper Renault speaking scanner - either buy one or beg/steal/borrow - the time and uncertainty wasted till now may already have justified the cost - I would suggest a Autel AP200 (white) because of very good experiences here already (there are others available as well)

So all I would try if I were you and without a proper scanner to guide you is to find the exact same engine/vehicle and hang a scanner off THAT ECU to see what the O2 sensors you have are reading under the same conditions - I am convinced that as long as the O2 is producing 1.27V in both free air and also when installed in the exhaust, any other faultfinding is going to be a waste of time. You need to somehow confirm that you have a known working sensor in your hands (and buying a new one is not necessarily the guaranteed way to do this since there are lots of BS being sold out there as per the other thread I linked to).

I asked before - what is the exact heater voltage you measure near/on the O2 sensor itself? - this is absolutely critical
 
Discussion starter · #35 ·
My Twingo is now fault free :) so I'll do a final update to share my thoughts on what the problems were and to thank @LvR for his tireless help. People like you make all the difference so thank you 👍

I finally took the car into Renault who confirmed the O2 sensor 2 Bank 1 failure. This turn out to be the 5 wire airflow sensor tucked down behind the bumper NOT the 4 wire sensor which looks like it screws in the top of the manifold (which I'd already replaced). As LvR pointed out there is a lot of rubbish parts out there for sale on eBay/Amazon/etc as I found out to my dismay and this threw me badly trying to diagnose fault, as it couldn't be a problem with my shiny new sensor now could it !! Save yourself a headache and buy an original part first so you only buy once.

The electrical problems were caused by some idiot (me) leaving a cheap OBD sensor plugged in whilst the car was running. That sensor is now in the bin.

At least I've learnt a lot about my Twingo and I do have a bunch of spare parts now. :-(

P
 
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