Yeah, worth doing really - as you say could be unnessary damage being caused to the injector then the big bill and the hindsight would kick in

 

There's no way of knowing but an old seal could last for ages or burn a hole into an expensive injector in a very short time. The washers are designed for once only application as when new they compress when they are tightened.

The washers also help conduct heat away from the injectors as combustion temperatures can be as high as 2000 dgrees C and combustion opressures reach around the 50 Bar region at the tip of the injector.

When you consider it, that small washer may have to withstand some tough conditions.

 

There we go - don't go doing what I did! haha.. as seen in the pics I used fine wet and dry on all of the injector's body that goes inside the engine - thankfully not a costly mistake!


Jokes aside this sealey tool is £40, new seals £8, and as always messing with injectors is playing with fire.. Would I be a fool to leave a recycled washer in a dirty hole or just take the time needed and splash the cash on the tools?

By the way, my MPG have increased from 55.1 to 57.6 on the trip computer (I drive like a grandad and these are leveled out readings - same trips/routes over a week).

Many thanks Noel

 

The professionals use a special reamer (see link below) to clean the seats - even the slighest fault in the mating surfaces can cause hot spots resulting in breaking down the fire wall seal (washer).

The pointy end (nozzle) of the injector which protrudes down into the engine has a number extremely fine holes which are hard to detect - you may need a magnifying glass to see them. It is not recommended to attempt to clean the lower end of the nozzle due to the risk of damage.

http://www.workshopping.co.uk/files/VS2055.V2.pdf

 

A thin strong rag and a screwdriver - its not a good job at all, the seat wasn't spotless I hoovered the hole and visually checked afterward for any loose debris. It has worked but it all needs doing properly. Silly question, or is it - where dose the injector inject the feul from? I didn't see a hole!?
I'm guessing the tar stuff is cooked oil, my turbo is leaking slightly so this probably added to the tar..

How to the professionals clear the seats? - some kind of plug polishing tool? Surely anything too abrasive will take material from the aluminium seat?

 

How did you clean the injector seat inside the cylinder head?

The washers tend to be an uncommon size and are intended only to be used once and rather than chase around hunting for appropriate washers many people generally use originals albeit expensive but in comparison to the cost of an injector it's usually a quicker and cheaper option.

 

Sorry forgot the injector!

That oily stuff was like tar! - not wet!

 

Slightly embarressed guys :forehead:

So, I knew I had a leak as some goop reapeared after buying the car and cleaning it off. Just recently I've not been able to start the car when hot, messege warning light and beep of Injection fault. SO - I investigated and gathered myself a bloody good handful of copper washers from the garage.

Here we go:

View of injector

For anyone who is interested - Pinch the injector clip here to remove it properly.

I removed the hard pipe on the top and swung it out of the way to let injector out.

Lovely injector :crazy:

Cleanish - I would have done a better job had it not been getting dark, heres the worst bit! - I had to use the leaking injector as my handful of washers were waaaaaay off!

Assembled.

So, verdict - It starts quicker, sounds quieter (I didn't even notice it was louder than it should be), starts from hot. By the way the method of removal was:
Undo electrical plug, undo injector clip bolt (size 45 Torx) slightly (it was relatively loose) - a turn, put plug back on, start engine, heard a slight air noise, stopped engine, took off electical plug again, loosened hard pipe on top and swung out of the way, removed bolt & clamp, wriggled injector out and cleaned as best as possible and re-assembled.

So, I will be replacing this old seal ASAP, but I'd like to know your guys views on the pics and any advice you guys have on it!?

Cheers!

Scott

 

coke works not the white type

If the engine runs i would do as previously sugested loosen the clamps a little and leave it running it will pop out then you can retighten to do others if required they can be tight so might take time it always works for me though

 

I would avoid using an injector puller if at all possible because the injectors may me rendered totally inserviceable as they have to be dismantled for the puller to fit. Injectors will come out more easily on a warm engine so run engine with slack injector clamps until they come loose by the action of engine firing pressure.
The seats need be machined to ensure the new fire seals no longer leak. As already stated, you also need to ream or somehow clean out the bores.

 

WD40 isn't very godd at softening carbon which has probably gathered round the leaking injectors. Carb cleaner or a similar solvent may work better.

 

Just slacken off the injector clamp and run engine at idle. The stuck injectors will then rattle loose. You need to clean and inspect seats. Bore may need reaming. Refit with new fire seals.