Independent Renault Forums banner
21 - 33 of 33 Posts
08.30 mind says : While you make a balance if the engine is worth some effort or not : add a compression test.
I suppose that will be as good as perfect, but I supposed before the pump wouldn't be a goner either.
 
Your choice but if motor is set up as a camper van, there is a value to it far beyond that of an old Kangoo.
Makes system rebuild more viable.
Shop around for prices on recon pump and injectors.
Tank needs emptying and thorough cleaning. Don't leave it off motor for longer then needed, placcie tanks can distort and make refitting difficult.
Pipes, clean or replace.
Timing will be disturbed hence time to change belt as well.
Other bits like Common Rail need cleaning or replacing.
Garage costs will be high as is lots of labour.
Parts costs far less if you are willing and can use a set of spanners.
 
Discussion starter · #23 ·
Your choice but if motor is set up as a camper van, there is a value to it far beyond that of an old Kangoo.
Makes system rebuild more viable.
Shop around for prices on recon pump and injectors.
Tank needs emptying and thorough cleaning. Don't leave it off motor for longer then needed, placcie tanks can distort and make refitting difficult.
Pipes, clean or replace.
Timing will be disturbed hence time to change belt as well.
Other bits like Common Rail need cleaning or replacing.
Garage costs will be high as is lots of labour.
Parts costs far less if you are willing and can use a set of spanners.
Thanks for advice, tempted to do it but not sure if it will be worth the hassle cost and time fully.
- Injectors coming back around 100 each, then pump around 150-300 (Unsure on condition of these and unsure on going price as prices differentiate a lot).
- Tempted to just buy a petrol tank from scrap yard and fit this so avoids any filings in there. Pipes wouldnt be too much of a cost to buy, but cleaning maybe viable.

All in looking at a full day or weekend for this job and as i have nowhere undercover its up to the weather! - Seems to take up to around 500-700 on a rough estimate. Is it worth the cost and time? not sure.... something i will have to weigh up. Is it a hard job to do? or is it just very time consuming? any major difficulties?
 
......... Is it a hard job to do? or is it just very time consuming? any major difficulties?
How long is a piece of string?
I am assuming as it is a camper, it is a second vehicle and as such, doesn't matter if one weekend or spread over a few.
Injectors coming out may be an issue, in theory they pop out easily, in practice can be a right pain. Do not know until you try them.
New ones will need coding to the ECU...needs Renault friendly diagnostic kit.
Timing is a precise job and requires setting tools, access is awkward but easily doable for a competent DIY.
Pump access probably means bumper and front panel off, not as bad as it may sound.
Tank is a big, awkward lump, not heavy (if empty) but probably needs a second pair of hands.... cleaning isn't difficult, wipe out all you can, pressure wash/hose on hard setting as far as you can, drain and wipe, repeat till happy. I would not use any solvent based cleaner but soap and water is fine.
I would not touch a second hand pump personally, just do not know history or condition. Recon with a guarantee gives peace of mind though will cost more.
Grand should cover everything.
Which is a lot but can you find another camper in reasonable condition for a grand ?


Has to be your choice.
 
Discussion starter · #25 · (Edited)
Second vehicle correct - Fully converted the camper by myself, so not had much cost there but have done it to a good standard as very handy with wood. So looks much more expensive than what it cost to build!

Injectors don't really scare me too much, watched quite a few videos but watching one and doing it is another! - My friend has a snap on diagnostics, could this work to code?

What do you class as setting tools?

Bumper off and pump doesn't seem to hard, is flushing the fuel lines rather straightforward? or anything to watch out for? as fuel lines into the tank would need to be cleaned too. Would the lines have to removed or could it be done whilst attached in engine? Would i use air or water? - This is the part i don't understand fully as i've never had to do it. Screws, nuts, bolts and spanners i understand but never had to flush - not too up to scratch on which pipes go where funnily enough.

- Tank, unfortunately, is full so will need a big drain beforehand. Will probably have to hand pump this out.

Spent 1,300 on the vehicle which I regret - seems a bit much now but on the day I thought I was buying something reliable and well looked after due the service history and no apparent issues on the day. - How wrong was I? So all in will be around 2,300 once completed - Or could sell this maybe for 300 - optimistic, +1000/1500 and buy something hitting 2 grand mark - still a loss of 1000 but will hopefully not have to put up with these issues.

Do you have anywhere i can read a full breakdown of how to do it flush clean remove ect? Had a look round forums but nothing i can see - maybe will be in my haynes manual for clio.
 
How long is a piece of string?
I would not touch a second hand pump personally, just do not know history or condition. Recon with a guarantee gives peace of mind though will cost more.

Has to be your choice.
You're right. New price is more low than i thought, esp compared to scrap price and effort. Not worth going to a scrapyard rather far away and dismantle a car there.

Don't know what brand they put on original. I saw Delphi and Bosch / Siemens, depending on the engine.
Scrap here is still 100 / 200 euro or up.
 
Discussion starter · #28 ·
Hi All, little update.

Diesel specialist close to me have quoted me 1000 all in for repair give or take a hundred. - Just varies due to the pricing of parts and this for a full system flush and replacing major parts. - Labour will remain the same. - Advised if i can find parts cheaper overall cost will be reduced.

Now in a situation where i can get it repaired professionally for around the same price it will cost me to do it myself.

Decisions.

Is there much else that go wrong around this mileage? As my luck, I will get this repaired and something else will go on it not long after.

Also been looking at VW's/Fords and might take a big hit and sell as it is and just upgrade my spending power to 4 grand or around.
 
If I were you, I would see what a new one would cost me minus what you can get for the old one.
If you pay 4000 and you would get 1000 back for the van, it would still cost you 3000.
Plus you would have to rebuild the next van and some thigs from the Renault wouln't fit any more.

What is really something nobody will want to advice you on, is : do you need to keep the Renault.
Nobody can predict the future.
Will this van or the next van give you more trouble. Both are possible.

At this mileage, a broken alternator, starter, waterpump, radiator, airconditioner, battery, glowplugs..
All can / are likely to stop working one of these ...
Keep the timing belt in good condition and change (now !) in time to avoid trouble for an other 60-70k.
The only way you could avoid all that would be to get a new van with 2 - 5 years warranty.
As well this one as the next second hand one could suffer from all these things.

Don't know if you are from UK and if they have a system there that guarantees the mileage of a car.
Here we have a database and every official service point for cars (MOT, garage, tyre center, etc) will have to register the mileage in an official database. I have no idea if you are sure about the mileage for your cars there.. But that's a big issue too. I guess cause you talked about extensive maintenance, you do have the papers to prove it, with registered mileage ?


I once sold a van after 18 months with 100.000 miles on it. Was sold for export where the buyer told me : it will leave this country with the current mileage but it's sure that, before it arrives in the destination country, the mileage will have become a lot less.
 
Discussion starter · #30 · (Edited)
Very true. All in I would be around 2300 on the Kangoo, if repaired, maybe could ask for around 1700 due to it being converted (some are even going for 3000 but these are showroom quality). Loss of around 600 compared to 1,000.
So spent around 600 in total - maybe use it for a year and sell it.

Or do I take the loss, make life "easier" sell it now for pence, then just use my hard worked money to buy something else... Speaking to diesel specialist he said he sees no end of these come in, said stay with a VW treat it right and it'll carry on climbing.

Shame these kangoos and 1.5dcis have this pump issue as they are brilliant little cars. - Like I say, my Renault was a petrol and went up to 144k somehow and i used to thrash the knackers off it.

Will have to compare prices and weigh up what is the best outcome...

I am from UK correct. - We can normally check the history of the car against mot history standard to make sure mileage checks up with previous tests. - It has full documented history from day one so mileage is warranted. I'll have to dig the history out, I wrote it all down in a book, cambelt was done at 48k, 4 years ago thats all I can remember. Servicing was kept well within the limits of Renaults recommendations and new battery 3 years ago.
 
Tis common in this case to acquire an Ex Petrol tank, as it's cheaper than swilling out a Diseasel one that's full of filings.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Dancingdad
A second hand petrol tank makes sense, assuming interchangeable.
I am surprised that you found anyone willing to clean and flush and fit new/recon parts for a grand. But if they have the kit and knowledge and you trust them, it isn't much more then you would pay anyway... check what they would be doing about timing and ask how they flush ?

The pumps on these have a reputation but it is not a given, 100k plus is "common wisdom" of when they fail but plenty go far beyond. Same system on many other makes as well.
88k is nothing on the rest of these engines BTW, doubt the pistons/bores show any wear.
Running gear and brakes may be thinking on failing but that is wear and tear that will occur on any car.
Clutch is the only other major I would be concerned on.
 
Discussion starter · #33 ·
When I spoke to him i asked for a quote, he said he did one not long ago for a farmer, 44k miles, full flush and rebuild 1000 all in. They're official delphi bosh distributors, fully tool equipped. Linked them below.

Diesel fuel injection services in nottingham from P Atkins

As it's ex-disabled vehicle, can't imagine it being badly worn or damaged, probably plotted too and back from bingo and the shops. Engine looks very clean, like I said, EGR valve had no carbon build up at all. The intake was the tiniest bit of carbon. All I can assume its been well looked after had over 30 pages of servicing, repairs, maintenance ect.

Not sure how badly the conversion would affect placement of fuel lines ect and fuel tank.
 
21 - 33 of 33 Posts