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Scroll up to post #96 for the answer.
 
i have read #96 with all the other posts in this thread. I was pondering whether it would be easier to order and fix the 'axial transponders' or wether to swap the chips containing the code info over to a new card. Looking at the remnants of what I cut off they dont appear to have soldering tabs, but are glued on?

Just wanted to share todays 'drama' really.
 
They are glued first, then flow soldered in a wave solder machine. Look up "Surface Mount Technology".
Chances are when the inductors got ripped off, the solder pads were ripped off too.
To swap chips over you'll need an SMT expert. Poss cheaper IMHO to get another card done, cost me £160 all in with 3D keys (Notts) last year.
You could always ask Keyrepair.co.uk for an opinion.
 
Ah right, so you didnt manage to fix the one you cut off then? were you able to confirm if it was the right one? you were unsure in your post.

Our local dealer got us a new card for about £150/£160 from memory last time (my diy repair was to keep the car running at the time until the new card came)
 
It works OK, but as only one of the two got damaged, & I have no idea what the value of the damaged one was, I was just glad it worked, never mind the range.
The one I ordered was the only one with a value that seemed near. I am an electronics engineer by trade, but without a proper circuit, I could only guess.
 
I have a question for you. The card key PCB is pretty much identical to my Renault Grand Scenic keys. I've had a problem with 'Card Key Not Detected'. I opened the card case and removed the PCB. Two of the Transducer coil legs were loose so I soldered them back on. However, the leg near the letters TOP is not holding at all. There appears to be nothing under it to solder onto. Has something broken off? I cant see anything on the white surface I am working on and I cant see anywhere on the PCB where the connector would lead to. Holding the PCB up to the light shows tiny wires leading from the other two connections but nothing under the third connection. Your advice is appreciated.


:confused:
 
Great info ,Thanks very much, was difficult getting the keycard open but once that was done the info pointed straight to the problem one dry soldered joint, re soldered job done , Thanks again
 
Superb thread.

I dropped my Scenic II 2005 key card, after which it was not detected by the car anymore. Remote locking worked ok.

I ran into this thread and managed to open the key card, thanks to the great instructions in the beginning.

I noticed immediately that two of the coil's legs had lifted. I soldered the one that had wiring for it on the PCB (the third leg seems to be redundant, only for mechanical stability or something, and seems to have no proper soldering point at the PCB). Still the key card was not detected.

I measured the resistance of the coil (still attached to the PCB) and measurement matched exactly the one stated previously on this thread for a failed coil. When checking the coil in more detail, I noticed that the thin coil wire had snapped off right where it meets the coil's larger metallic feet piece (right at the end of the coil wire).

I guided the lose end of the coil wire as close to its original fixing point as I could using a toothpick and managed to put a tap of solder on it. This fixed the coil wire back to its original fixing point and resistance measurement confirmed that coil was ok (again matching the number previously stated in this thread).

So eventhough the coils seems defect, one should check the coil wires ends for not being loose.

Thanks again!
 
@ Pakkala,

well done....a good technical fix :cool:


Great result.


Cheers.
 
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Just wanted to give a big thankyou to tomalamix for these fantastic instructions couldn't of fixed my keycard without his advise.
Much appreciated him taking the time to step by step instructions.
 
Hello guys : ) I have a big problem with my kaycard and i need yours help. How you can see in the picture, there are some missing elements : ( Unfortunately i lost them when i opened the keycard. Now i need some information about these elements and theirs VALUES. In older post I saw they are 2 capacitors and 1 inductor.
BEST REGARDS !!! :wink2:
 

Attachments

Nothing in the Very first thread.

Not a clue myself..
 
My two cents regarding coil repair. I have 0.08mm wire so I decided to give it a try.

Wire: 0.08mm
Inductance: 2.35mH
Resistance: ~60Ohm

If you don't have winding machine like me this is what I did:

1. Old wire removed (cut it with scalpel if needed), and pins cleared with soldering iron.
2. One pin selected to start with (~10 turns around pin) - no soldering at this point
3. Pins to be spread a bit - otherwise, wire wouldn't have a clear path
4. So, winding begins and ends until it reaches near the end of bobbin. Since I do not have winding machine yet, I used standard hand drill with speed adjusted to its minimum (220V one). Also I used a torx bit T-40 that fits perfectly to a bobbin (debossed part on it), then made it still with a strong neodymium magnet from the other side.
5. Once it is done, other pin is wrapped too (~10 turns)
6. Add a bit of soldering flush on pins, then give it some solder (give it some pressure with some movements. Eenamel will be burned away - no need for sanding paper or other abrasives)
7. Measure with LCR if you have it. Every time I did this with 0.08mm wire, induction was ~2.4mH and resistance ~ 60Ohms

Note: If you put it on a reader (I have ZedBull) it will read every nth try (or even not) But, if you put in a card reader it will work without issues, every time.
I guess ZedBull is not giving enoughly strong burst like car card reader do.

Hope this will help someone.

Regards
 
Hi all!

Does anyone know values of two hands-free SMD inductors (picture) of Megane 2 keycard?
When I search for Megane 2 on ebay or aliexpress I find 2.38mH but I think those are for transponders of remotes of Citroen & Peugeot (returned results for Megane).

178242


Thanks!


P.S. Any way to @mention someone in post? I see that #96 made some effort already...
 
As promised here by my view of the components (see image).
The resistor values can be read from the components. The tolerances are 5% (3 digit code) the first 2 digits represent the value, the 3rd the exponent. fi: 103 = 10 * 10E3 = 10k (10000) ohm 472 = 47 * 10E2 = 4k7 (4700) ohm

The capacitors can not be identified that easily, the only way to identify the values is to solder them out the circuit and measure it with a capacitance meter.
Unfortunately the value is only part of the solution, and voltage and materiaal are also very important.

The 2 parts marked with ? can be one of very many things.
The 6 pin version could be a switching voltage regulator as it has some R L and C's connected. But it could also be a microprocessor.
The 3 pin version could be a diode (matches with the regulator idea) or a FET.

This is the best I can do from a photo, and without any datasheets. Hope its usefull.

Robin
Do you have a parts listing with values.
I am looking for a long time to find them.
Regards, Berry
 
It's very easy when slicing the card open to catch these componenets so be careful. Also note that over time the card being quite flexible these components can work loose and a rattling key card can show this. Again when opening the card be careful as these components are extremely small and it's easy to loose them.
Anywaty here is some of the data.

All caps measured off board.
C2 1uF tant
C14 390pF
C13 100pF
C12 22pF
Very difficult to measure L2 - try 100nH

Still working on my card to operate doors at 433MHZ. Components are on order soon as I have soldered them in I'll post the results.
Cheers Steve
Do you have an overview where the listed components are seated?
Thanks in advance, Berry
 
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