[Truckbusuk]

Hi,Does any of this relate to my 2002 Espace 111?

Sorry geoff ... Espace IV Phase1 (2002-2006) only ... not sure about the Espace IV Phase2 withe the "turning" headlights.

Hope it helps

 

[geoff4977]

Thanks anyway,just my luck.

 

[advancedpcs]

RE: Espace IV 2007-on Xenon Lights

Guys,

FYI, the process is the same with the [new] Adapative Forward Lighting Xenon headlights on the 2007 Espace range, meaning the lever is still there althought the bulb housing is different (and location from within the light unit).

On another note, the Xenon headlights for the Espace range up to 2002 (III) also do have a lever - feel for it and you will find it!

AdvancedPCs

 

[Truckbusuk]

Good that its also on the 2007 Espace IV's and on the Espace III xenons .... sorry for the bum steer geoff ..... but why dont the dealers know about it and why is it not in the owners handbook?

Just something else Renault are keeping from us


Edit .... wonder if Elvis is working there?

 

[John J]

..... but why dont the dealers know about it and why is it not in the owners handbook?

Just something else Renault are keeping from us

UK Customer services didn't know about it either.

What I also find incredible is that the towing limit for the auto boxes is somewhat less that the 2000Kg listed in the owners handbook and that listed on the sales blurb according to a well known technical set of CD disks available on ebay ...

I would be well p***ed off if I discovered this after I blew the auto box. I bet Renault wouldn't stump up the full repair bill. :steam:

Not that knowing this would put me off buying the auto box but I would know not to tow a box trailer

JJ

 

[tango]

Hi everyone, my espace mk4 2003 just have the normal bulb on them, my problem is they are a bit on the low down, cant see very far, is there a adjuster for moving the light up & down, even I had the nob inside turn all the way up still too low?

there is a white gear type adjuster on the light unit, I think that is for left or right...

any sugestion?
thanks

 

[John J]

I believe that there is a manual electrical adjustment inside the car - have you checked that?

The other possibility is that the electrical adjustment isn't working correctly. I have an Espace with the Xennon bulbs (auto adjusting) and occasionally I have to wiggle the connector to get the electrical adjustment to work correctly.

I need to remove the connector & clean/lubricate the contacts to see if I can get them to be more reliable. This may be your problem also - albeit in conjunction with manual adjustment? Not worked out how to remove connector yet...

 

[advancedpcs]

@tango:
If, when operating the [manual] headlight adjuster from inside the car, the headlight beam moves up and down together then that operation is working fine. If you feel your beam alignment is too low (bearing in mind you are sitting higher than most other car drivers so your perceptive field of vision will differ) then I recommend taking it to a MOT testing station and asking them to inspect and/or adjust your headlights. There are two 'adjusters' on the headlight (5mm Hex/Allen key I think); the ones innermost (towards centre of vehicle) are for the up/down adjustment and the outermost ones are for left/right adjustment.

If the electronic adjusters don't operate then take a trip over to Renualt who will offer to sell you a new one. They should test your old one first though.

PEASE NOTE! Any manual adjustments made to the headlights (i.e. directly from the headlight units) MUST be made with on a flat surface, car not running but ignition on, Auto Parking brake OFF and NOBODY in the vehicle. This also applies to vehicles with factory fitted Xenon headlights.

@John J:
Our offside (drivers) automatic headlight adjuster did the same thing; would work, wouldn't work and 'wiggling' the cables to it resolved it short term... ultimately it stopped working altogether and a new one purchased from Renault (approx £50 incl VAT) resolved it. The Headlights fantastically realligned themselves too once fitted (i.e. not just up/down together, but rather left up, right up, left down, left up, right down, right up then together). Bizzarre but cool!

The cable is really awkward to get off and taking the headlights out are a much easier (and safer) option in the long-run (plastic trim removal and two bolts).

Both of you - let me know how you get on, thanks.

 

[John J]

Thanks for the suggestion. Perhaps a job for the weekend.

Alas in our case BOTH units behave the same - i.e. wiggle connectors etc to get it working again. Like a fool I checked before taking to a dealership (when it was in warrenty) and of course they found nothing as the fault had magically fixed itself!

Did you check out the old units to see what had failed? I think I've seen several discussions about failed Renault headlamp adjustment systems on the forum. Perhaps its a common problem?

The fact that in my case, both sides are suffering the same thing makes me think it is a poor connection. If it's straightforward to get the headlamp out then perhaps I'll do that & tighten the connectors whilst it's out.

Many years ago when I worked for a "training week" in a repair centre for a computer company, I always used to check the connectorts first as 9 times out of 10 that was all that the fault. Hence, my initial thoughts.

 

[advancedpcs]

@John J,
You could very well have an electrical problem indeed; our N/S headlight would act strangely as the O/S adjustment motor failed (eventually). You may have two faulty units on their way out to adjuster heaven or a simple wiring issue.

Removing the headlights are very straight forward - simply remove the top plastic trim from above the headlight (left of the engine bay) to reveal a bolt. The same for the front inside of the headlight. You don't have to remove the bumper etc but I'm sure the plastic grill section had to be taken to one side (the black plastic trim at the top which clips out) - take a look and I'm sure you'll work it out. Think the two [long] bolts holding it in are 13mm. As you remove the headlight, lift upwards from the front a little as they have a locating lug at the bottom rear. Once clear, unplug all the wires and there you have one [dirty!] headlight.

The adjusters twist and pull out, tilting the main adjuster unit body downwards so the 'arm' internally can come away from the location lug in an upward manner. Don't simply pull the adjuster straight out or you may snap something! Once removed, take a look in the hole and you'll see how it goes back in. Remove the Xenon light rubber cover and pull the bulb housing towards you to get the actuator/adjuster locator nearer the hole.

We did inspect the faulty actuator/adjuster and internally it's a PCB with a motor on it, give or take a few extra bits. Current was ok through the unit but the motor was burnt out and by the time we sourced a replacement motor (RS etc) and unsoldered/soldered/tested etc it would've been just as easier to get a whole new unit. We get trade discount from our dealer and also the VAT back so it's always a little cheaper than retail anyway

The Renault part number for the adjuster/actuator (sme on both sides) is 8200 277 945. This is for the Xenon Headlight adjuster only as they differ between Halogen and Xenon type headlights (connector and track location).

Hope the above helps and good luck whichever route you decide to take! Let us know how you get on

AdvancedPCs

 

[John J]

Will do.

Sounds like there is some commonality between the left & right lights if a fault in one can affect the other. Don't suppose you have a set of wiring diagrams? The disks I have don't include the wiring diags as far as I can see.

I guess there must be a set of disks for the electrics?

Handy to have a "friendly" dealer who gives you trade. Mine charges full whack which means £50 for an oil filter! (Isuzu engine) Even the parts dept were embarassed when they saw the price.

TIA

JJ

 

[Zedster]

Xenon Lights seem to be set too Low.

Hi.

I've been reading this thread and wondered if anyone got advice me. My headlights appear to be set too low, the length of the beam in my opinion is too short. There is mention of a lever behind the lights that can adjust the beam, could it be that they are set to the continental setting and i just didn't know, as its been like this since i got the car, or does the lever not effect the height?

Your comments would be appreciated.


Kind regards
Zed.

 

[Truckbusuk]

Hi.

I've been reading this thread and wondered if anyone got advice me. My headlights appear to be set too low, the length of the beam in my opinion is too short. There is mention of a lever behind the lights that can adjust the beam, could it be that they are set to the continental setting and i just didn't know, as its been like this since i got the car, or does the lever not effect the height?

Your comments would be appreciated.


Kind regards
Zed.

Hello Zed, the lever on the rear of the lights only affects the "kick" that is required for the UK (right hand drive) and removes it for the continent (left hand drive), it doesnt affect the height of the beams, that is controlled by the dial on the dash on "normal" headlamps and the auto leveling on the Xenon/discharge lamps.

Best thing is to get you lamp aim checked by an MOT station, and if it requires to be set, then remember it should be checked on a level surface with no-one in the car.... the MOT guys should know all this.

hope it helps.

 

[Zedster]

thanks truckbusuk,.

i will have them checked. Do you know if you can adjust the xenon headlamps if they are not set correct? as you say they are auto.

regards
Zed

 

[Truckbusuk]

thanks truckbusuk,.

i will have them checked. Do you know if you can adjust the xenon headlamps if they are not set correct? as you say they are auto.

regards
Zed

Hi Zed, yes they can, the "auto" adjustment only compensates for changing loads in the vehicle, the "static" ajustment is the baseline, and the bit thats MOT testable, thats why there should be no-one in the car when its set-up, as the "auto" adjustment will make a compensation for the weight of the driver.

I also believe I read somewhere that the car should also have approx. 1/2 tank of fuel when the static adjustment is being done ... maybe someone else can confirm that.

Hope its helped.

 

[John J]

@John J,

We did inspect the faulty actuator/adjuster and internally it's a PCB with a motor on it, give or take a few extra bits. Current was ok through the unit but the motor was burnt out and by the time we sourced a replacement motor (RS etc) and unsoldered/soldered/tested etc it would've been just as easier to get a whole new unit. We get trade discount from our dealer and also the VAT back so it's always a little cheaper than retail anyway

The Renault part number for the adjuster/actuator (sme on both sides) is 8200 277 945. This is for the Xenon Headlight adjuster only as they differ between Halogen and Xenon type headlights (connector and track location).

Hope the above helps and good luck whichever route you decide to take! Let us know how you get on

AdvancedPCs

Well I got the unit out & tried tightening the connectors etc but alas - no success.

Got a quote for £130 for a replacement so I guess that isn't trade pricing! I think I'll take the RS route.

I "guess" it is a stepper motor & a stepper motor controller on the board. £130 quid seems a bit steep for that! Any idea what the part number was for the motor so I can research before pulling out again? What made you think it had burnt out? - TIA

Zedster - with respect to headlamp height checking, you can simply check against a wall or garage door at night provided you have a level surface in front of it for about 10m. as follows;

1) Drive as close as you dare to a vertical object e.g. garage door.
2) Set the headlamps to main beam and mark the position the centre point of the light makes on the door (e.g. using sticky tape)
3) Reverse in a straight line about 10m from door ON A LEVEL FLAT SURFACE.
4) Under the bonnet (near the headlight) you will see a % figure indicating adjustment setting. On mine (Xenon) its set to 1%.
5) put another piece of tape on the door 10m x 1% i.e. 10cm below the original tape.
6) check the max intensity of the light spot on the door is at the level of the lower piece of tape.

The 1% figure seems lower than previous cars I've owned but I guess thats because they self adjust for the driver when they get in, compensation that clearly doesn't happen on non-adjusting units. Non-Xenon units presumaly have a different figure? Anyone care to comment?

This process has worked for me in the past & enabled be to successfully adjust my non-Xenon headlights to get through the MoT. Not the simplest, but it works.

JJ

 

[advancedpcs]

John,

Once we stripped the unit out of the plastic casing to reveal just the PCB/motor/contacts etc, we [bravely] powered it up from the headlight power again (engine running and turning lights on).. the motor simply 'juddered' and buzzed. Trying the N/S adjuster in the O/S headlamp unit proved the wiring was ok as that worked.

We did take photos of the unit/PCB/etc whilst it was out (for future reference to save us removing the unit again) and will search through them to get numbers for you. It's a simple motor (not stepper) that runs clock/anti-clock, driving a screw type shank to pull/push the headlight up/down.

£130+ for the adjuster? Where are you going?! We were quoted approx. £58 including the VAT (no more than £60 anyway) and they gave us around 17% off as trade. We get the VAT back anyway so was even cheaper! I'll update my details so you can PM me should you wish to discuss us obtaining one for you..)

@Truckbusuk, the 1/2 tank full you've heard about is simply the 'nominal' exceptance load before the auto-adjusters will work. As long as there [ideally] isn't more than half a tank of fuel in the vehicle and presuming that you haven't a boot full of bricks, it shouldn't matter whether the tank is full of vapours or 25% fuel* Please also note that factory adjustments to the headlights are carried out will ALL the seats in as per vehicle order, i.e. 6 for the Initialle and 7 for the Privilege etc.. Each seat can weigh up to 20KG each so bear this in mind when some have been removed prior to setting the lights. The 1% compensation is for the standing kerb weight/seat/fuel configuration in all possible permitations available (including driver only).

*- "Fluid Fill" at factory for fuel is 25% of tank (for rolling road tests and delivery). It should be noted that ECU's are reset at the end of the CAL (Customer Acceptance Line) when the vehicles are bought off for dealer delivery. Approx. 60 miles worth of tweaking and testing are carried out on ALL vehicles before they are sent to the CAL.. so when a dealer states "6 miles delivery mileage", this only refers to the distance the vehicle makes to the car park waiting area prior to transport loading and then off loading at the dealer. The water tests and rolling road test mileage are removed from the ECU before being 'sold' to dealers. This method is employed by all vehicle manufacturers, not just Renault. I'm wandering now so I digress

 

[tonycav]

Hi Guys,
I'm hoping someone can help me.
Having read this thread, I can see that the auto adjuster appears to cause a few problems, & I'm suffering from the driver side on on my Grand Espace (54 plate) not working.
However, I've no idea where on the headlight to find this so I can remove it & inspect/replace as necessary.
Could anyone tell me where I can find it?
many thanks
Tony

 

[advancedpcs]

@tonycav,

Hi Tony,

Standing in front of the engine bay with the drivers side headlight on your left (UK RHD), you will find the adjuster on the inside edge of the headlight at the grill end. It looks like an external 'block' attached to the headlight with a wiring plug attached to it at the bottom (4-5 wire plug).

To remove the adjuster simply twist it clockwise/anticlockwise (can't remember but it'll only go one way). DON'T just pull at it once it has been twisted off as you'll break the connecting rod that attaches to the headlight. Lever the adjust down once untwisted out as the connecting rod attaches from the top of the hole it resides in. It really isn't as hard as this may sound; simply untwist the unit and lever down then out.

To fit the new one, you will find it easier to remove the headlight bulb cover and pull the bulb holder (or Xenon D2S unit) towards the engine. This will allow you to reconnect the adjuster connecting rod onto the headlight from the top (inside the adjuster hole). Lever the adjuster level, let go of the headlight bulb mount and you should be able to 'pull' the headlight internals up and down pulling on the adjuster. Once you are satisfied it's doing it's job, relocate the adjuster by twisting it back into place.

TIP: Detach the control wires after you have removed the adjuster and subsequently reattach them before relocating the adjuster.

Any further Q's, buzz them over.

Advancedpcs

 

[tonycav]

Many thanks for the reply, I've found the adjuster now.
All I need is the rain to stop so I can try to get it out

I'm sure I'll be back here if I get stuck!

Thanks again.

Tony