i had similar probs with my 54 1.5 DCI and it turned out simply to be the battery. mine would discharge randomly, working for a few weeks, then one day, get in, and nothing.

i had AA check and they said battery seemed fine, and battery drain was fine, but 1 week later, it was same again. so i got a new battery, and been fine since

one snippet i got, was that it may have been a mistake by Renault. i heard a rumour that they fitted Petrol batteries by mistake to a bunch on 54 plated 1.5 dci's which meant the battery would have a short life span as it coped with starting a diesel

got mine from

http://www.performancebatteries.co.uk/

 

I suggest you get the battery load tested and the alternator output checked first. Most decent battery suppliers will do this for free in the hope of making a sale.
If all proves OK in that respect I suggest you check the resistance of each glow-plug which should be 0.6 ohms.
Then check if the pugs are getting a 12 volt supply when the ignition is first switched on and check for how long they are receiving a current.

 

thanks all for the replies, just got back in from sorting a few things out. Right, well, still no start, at about 1pm, she nearly fired. Smoke comeing out of exhaust, but as she catches, seems to cut out again. So, will have a look at glow plugs resistance and check timing of them as they have a post glow as well, according to the manual. will chack that, if it shows a fault, then will replace glow pug timer relay, under n/s wheel arch..my days of freezing in snow are over..lol..will use rangey this week, looks like i may need it as its white here in Lincolnshire.

 

Worth checking the compressions, these 1.5's are pone to carbon build up on the rings which will make cold starting a real pain, look for over 25 bar!

Will sound like it wants to fire but just not quite, eventually will go, have had to tow start quite a few.

 

Hi, nah its nothing to do with the compression, it is the glow plug relay as the mid and post burn isnt happening. Will have a look on the weekend as its too cold at the moment to be messing about with cars! Am inside have a beer!

 

sick scenic

evening all, just got back after running family errands in trusty Range Rover..just checked glowplugs, some are 0.3 ohms other 2 re 0.9 ohms. Wondered if anyone thinks these are high?..battery voltage is 11.76v.

I checked glow plugs with battery charger and they all heated up but am not sure if they are getting voltage when cranked on car.

New battery is on charge so will put that on saturday morning. More diagnosis to follow...

By the way, -5 here last night, range rover fired first turn of the key...and that is 22 yrs old..lol

 

It looks like all the glow-plugs ain't giving the right reading - resistance should be 0.6 ohms

 

Sick Scenic

Thanks for the replies, I have bit the bullet and ordered new glow plugs. Will fit them and see what happens on the weekend, snow dependent!

 

Hi any new's on this I haves the same problem. no current being delivered to the glow plugs?

 

so what is the best way to clear the Carbon? Redex?

 

sick scenic

Hi all, well, same symptoms again, fitted wellman glow plugs and now seems they are al open circuit. Am going to change them and put genuine OEM parts in. see what happens.

 

Mate have you try'd the battery, have had similar problems on various cars, on quite a few its turned out to be a dead cell on the battery, causing wierd stuff to happen including not being able to jump start from a good battery while old one is still connected!

 

Battery



I agree try the battery if you havent already, the same happend to me, allsorts of weirds stuff, and it didn't seem it could be the battery. I put one in from the scrappy (£10) Never had the problem since!!

Martin

 

When connected to a multimeter new glow plugs should have a resistance of 0.6 ohms. If not then either the new glow-plugs are incorrect or faulty or ain't being tested correctly. When testing connect the test leads between the central insulated terminal and the outer metal sheath aroun dthe hexagon area. It may also be prudent to check if the glow-plugs are getting a good voltage and also check for how long the voltage is supplied

 

dead scenic

Ok, am gonna have a go this weekend, final attempt! Now gota full set of unipart glow plugs, (£30 trade) will try and crank it first, second, where we filled up last, morrisons, its now being closed due to new fuelk tanksbeing fitted due to complaints..?..Hmm...

will replace tdc sensor and maybe glow plug relay timer unit..is there anyway i can test the glow plug timer? Thanks, Ian

 

Ok, am gonna have a go this weekend, final attempt! Now gota full set of unipart glow plugs, (£30 trade) will try and crank it first, second, where we filled up last, morrisons, its now being closed due to new fuelk tanksbeing fitted due to complaints..?..Hmm...

will replace tdc sensor and maybe glow plug relay timer unit..is there anyway i can test the glow plug timer? Thanks, Ian

Hi Ian,

just to re-cap if your battery is 11.7 Volts its is knakered. it needs to be at least 12.4V.

To test the glow plug relay connect a multimeter with 20 Amp capability between one of the plugs and the supply to the plug, get some one to try and start the car and you get a current reading of 16 ish Amps.

If you are unnable to do this I have a spare unit (second hand, I can send you Message me and we can sort out the cost)

Martin

 

Hi, cheers for that, I'll get the other half to hep out and give it a crank once battery is charged up, its a brand newone about 2 months ago! But wont last long as use range rover to boost it whilst cranking.