Before attempting a fuel filter change you'll need to find out which type it is. There are numerous variations.

Follow the low pressure fuel pipe back from the high pressure pump and you should bump into it.

 

Cheers, probably two weekends until I can risk the consequences of some DIY, will report back if I find anything of interest.

 

I usually realise that I've forgotten a spanner/socket/bolt by the large clang and rattle as I drive along. 0

 

Please help,

what mark is my car

 

Its a Renault Scenic Mark II

 

I will take pictures of of fuel type as suggested by

madnoel10:

However I want to read or watch video first on how to do a fuel change for a renault scenic 1.5 dci mark II.
Can anybody help me.
Thank you

 

I have just finished changing the air filter.
Is there are help or guidance I can follow to change the diesel filter change?

The last time I did a diesel filter change it was for a citroen. So please advice as I have totally forgotten what I should be doing.

 

Following advice on the Renault forum I have successfully changed the air and pollen filter. Thank you.

I am still struggling with the diesel fuel filter. Please help. I have uploaded pictures. If some one advice me I will be eternally grateful.

note i have taken more images

 

I am currently rebuilding the entire fuel system on one of these, as detailed in other threads. The original fuel filters are hidden in the wing and black plastic, with 2 inlets and 2 outlets. They are crap! After extensive discussions with a local diesel specialist I checked some out at the local motor factors. If you shake the filter you can hear the element sliding up and down inside! Can they therefore filter the fuel effectively? Dismembering an old one showed that, indeed, the element was not sealed around the outlet to the high pressure pump. These filters are also silly expensive, being €50 here. The primer bulb is also two way and leaks easily (mine has hairline cracks) and expensive.
My solution has been to extend the fuel lines into the engine compartment (€5), fit a Delphi CAV 4 way cartridge filter, with separate drain, water/crap bowl, air bleed valve and two spare elements (€25 and further elements will be €2.50), putting it bolted to the front cross member beside the bonnet latch (simple to check/change). I have also (paranoia?) fitted a rebuildable paper element and magnetic inline filter in the hose looping down to the injector pump (€10 plus €1 for spare elements) .
The fuel bulb has been replaced with a one-way truck component with billet fittings for €8. Pro. mechanics have advised me that the clip on fuel line fittings on the Renaults often bleed air into the system. I have replaced all with re-inforced PVC fuel pipe 8mm bore (10m = €15). This fits all the hose tails on the vehicle and will slide over the locking collar on the tails when dipped in hot water for a few secs. All secured with double ring spring clips (pence). I now have a (hopefully) reliable new fuel supply, which is simple to get to and check, for €5 more than a standard filter. Ongoing services (after the two free sets supplied) will be €3.50! and the CAV filters (HDF296) are available anywhere that sells car/truck/boat/tractor parts! When I spoke to Delphi regarding the disintegration of the fuel pump on my car they asked if it was protected by a genuine Delphi filter. It is now, so the shiny new pump I'm fitting should have a valid warranty?
Hope this is useful
Cheers
Mark

 

hello if you are confident enough with cars then look on youtube there are plenty on there good luck

 

Hi
I forgot to say that I can photo all of this work and post here!
Cheers
Mark
(now trying to decipher CAN clip software):devil:

 

Hi All,
Starting at the fuel filter on my 2004 Scenic 1.5 dCi in an investigation into "Injection Fault STOP" messages becoming rather frequent, first thing I noticed in just locating relevant items was that the filter was hanging in free space! So, wheel and arch liner off, it looks like the correct filter (sealed version), but is Unipart branded and also has some form of shield (water/heat?) covering mainly inboard and rear, attached with a jubilee clip, which may have contributed to it being difficult to clip in properly (now sorted and my hands bear the scars). Is this normal, and to be transferred over to a replacement filter, or a spurious part coming with a not-quite-standard filter? Fuel filter was itemised on the KwikFit service just a couple of months before I bought it.

 

Two parts, one fastened to the body,,,( inner part )
I think with 3/4 pins, The outer casing, could be held on with pins, or one section slots into the other,, and two pins down the side this is part of your car,,, not a kwik fit special
These together hold your fuel filter ...
No idea why there would be a jubilee clip there,,,will say no more:laugh::laugh::laugh::laugh:>

 

Tale of confusing woe.
Wasted a week buying the wrong filter, correct item installed this morning, damn it's fiddly to get those connectors off in the wheelarch. External shield just has one small hook on it so used jubilee clip again.
Test drive started OK, possibly an improvement over before, after a good ten minutes on urban roads I took it onto the dual carriageway and up to the speeds that trigger the injection fault. Running fine, sure it's smoother than before, after several miles I realise that now there's something other than windnoise. Sort of cement mixer grinding, does go away at idle but comes back regularly all other times. Took the short route home.
Listening at the engine bay, noise is definitely at the front of the engine, but not sure it's as high up as the fuel pump? Would be odd for something different to go wrong at this time, but would welcome opinions. How does one check water pump, alternator etc? Do I risk driving it further?

Fuel from filter during change appeared clean and water-free. The removed Unipart filter has an 11 stamp on it so probably was changed at the 2012 service, makes it 30,000 miles approx. Hacksawed it open, internals say Delphi on them. How big is the swarf supposed to be if the pump is falling apart?

 

Tale of confusing woe.
Wasted a week buying the wrong filter, correct item installed this morning, damn it's fiddly to get those connectors off in the wheelarch. External shield just has one small hook on it so used jubilee clip again.
Test drive started OK, possibly an improvement over before, after a good ten minutes on urban roads I took it onto the dual carriageway and up to the speeds that trigger the injection fault. Running fine, sure it's smoother than before, after several miles I realise that now there's something other than windnoise. Sort of cement mixer grinding, does go away at idle but comes back regularly all other times. Took the short route home.
Listening at the engine bay, noise is definitely at the front of the engine, but not sure it's as high up as the fuel pump? Would be odd for something different to go wrong at this time, but would welcome opinions. How does one check water pump, alternator etc? Do I risk driving it further?

Fuel from filter during change appeared clean and water-free. The removed Unipart filter has an 11 stamp on it so probably was changed at the 2012 service, makes it 30,000 miles approx. Hacksawed it open, internals say Delphi on them. How big is the swarf supposed to be if the pump is falling apart?

From what I have read on here, the fuel filter will be full of "glitter".
CAREFULLY, with engine running, take a long screwdriver, handle to bony part of ear, other end on alternator, pump etc. A sort of crude stethoscope.
HTH

 

Magnet would find it, that is how small the particles can be.
But not much point checking, if you have cut it open, blade of the hacksaw, leaves behind metal.
Start your engine, let it idle, long reach screwdriver, and very very carefully , touch the body of each unit, not the pulleys, you will feel it..
If your car is fitted with air con, and you can see the pulley, have a look,.
See if you can see any cleaner than normal metal showing, ( nice and shiny )
Be careful if its aircon, these pieces of metal can be extremely sharp, and cut your fingers very easily .....

 

Get some fuel from the system into a clean jar.
Let it stand so any particles settle.
Run a magnet around the bottom if there are any.
If iron/steel will clump and chase the magnet.
And a good indication of contaminated fuel due to the pump eating itself.

 

Can you get the belt off and check,, not dropped something down the impeller ..( the part just behind the pulley)
Just asking, have been there and done that, small washer.
Not noticed for a few days,,,,

 

Hmmm, opened bonnet after drive to find long screwdriver still on slam panel . . . don't think I unscrewed anything in engine bay (screwdriver was for releasing clips on filter), all other tools are unusually for me all present and accounted for. Will check in daylight, cheers.